What's going on with your Car/Truck/Vehicle? V3
lame fgt why do you have a brush guard
j/k, hope you ram a few things (pun after the fact because dodge)
Al, do you park for the winter or just wash the underside during snow? I haven't lived in snow in years and I eventually just got winter beaters because I cared too much. Lol.
Fuckin HonDUH pissing me off. Being a Honda i'm having the typical idle issue woes; going to try to clean up the TB and IACV. Bought an O2 Sensor and the fucks either sent me the wrong one of the plug is wrong so now I have to see about a refund/exchange. Thank goodness it takes all of 30 seconds to swap out once the car is actually off the ground. Also still need to figure out the exhaust leak issues, and also replace the top. Ugh. Neutral safety switch being lame too.
OH, need to back out a bolt that snapped off for the VTEC Solenoid. FFS. I don't feel too bad because the S/C guys snapped these off left and right. I'm at least able to get to the one that broke. Going to buy some machine bolts if anyone even has the right ones local, and try to replace them before the others snap off too.
Also chased an idle issue around for near an hour with a Viper Truck last night, which ended up being traced to a faulty fan relay causing a massive power draw. Pain in the f..king ass.
A lot more I could put here but, f..k it
lame fgt why do you have a brush guard
j/k, hope you ram a few things (pun after the fact because dodge)
Al, do you park for the winter or just wash the underside during snow? I haven't lived in snow in years and I eventually just got winter beaters because I cared too much.
I don't wash anything in the winter lol. Maybe if itll be 40+ for a couple days or something and I can get motivated but other than that she stays dirty from november to march.
Super likely it's that damn MAF, depending on the vehicle it might not even pull a code if you hooked it up though.
If Thomas would tell us the year/make/model. I could probably confirm for sure.
Alternately it could be a electrical failsafe in your motor telling you there is a problem with the transmission and it is trying to safeguard it by not allowing you to gain speed. Does it stop accelerating at a particular speed?
Alternately it could be a electrical failsafe in your motor telling you there is a problem with the transmission and it is trying to safeguard it by not allowing you to gain speed. Does it stop accelerating at a particular speed?
Sorry about that guys, It's a 2007 Honda Accord.
To your question, I was cautious not to go to fast when I noticed this happen and I wasn't driving on a road that would allow me to go that fast anyways.
Also the check engine light seems to go off a day or so after the problem goes away so the light wasn't on anymore when I brought it in. I don't know if that would make checking for codes any different.
My dad should have a meter gauge
So something like this www.youtube.com/watch?v=gd640ImE9Ec
or like this then?
www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQGSkWEC_u4
edit: according to the comments in the first one the guy used the wrong cleaner
Carb cleaner would get the job done too well, the MAF cleaner will probably go to waste after you use it one time, but it's best to have the right stuff so you don't have to fork out $80-150 to replace a sensor you ruined yourself.
Honestly though, your situation sounds rather severe and it may be that you will need to replace it anyway.
If you clean it and or replace it and it still has the same problems, replace the fuel filter, have your fuel pump checked and while your at it have your timing checked. Timing seems least likely though because, as you described it, the problem comes and goes.
Listen to MV and get the codes pulled, but if its the MAF sensor:
The most expensive MAF sensor on the greatest parts website ever is like $130. Just select the make/model/year/motor and click emissions, then MAF sensor. order one of the options and replace it yourself. On an accord it will be right next to your air filter box. I doubt you will need any special tools.
EDIT: You have an inline 4 motor, not a V4. Your pistons are in a line from rear to front. On rockauto.com for your motor choose "L4" (Longitudinal 4 cylinder)
Was going to ask actually - Any chance they manage to get the codes pulled for you while it was there? Just don't want to blindly chase issues.
Ordered the replacement top, need to get straps and other odds and ends. Got gaskets for the TCT, hope it doesn't decide to start rattling AFTER I make the leak stop :|
Talked to a guy about an '80 280Z and also anotnher dude about a '76 Wagon. Things might happen, but I'm out of hiding places.
Have some type of short in the wiring somewhere for my lo-beams. They will go out in heavy rain fall. Been told it could also be a faulty neutral switch, but considering the two instances when they both stop working has been in very heavy rain, Im going to assume theirs a short/exposed wiring somewhere.